How to Fix and Start Your Car When It Won’t Start?

It’s a scene we’ve all experienced – you hop in your car, turn the key in the ignition, and instead of the sweet sound of a rumbling engine, you’re met with an awful silence. Or even worse – the dreaded rapid clicking of a car that just won’t start no matter how hard you try.

Few things can be more panic-inducing than turning the key and having your trusty automobile let you down in the morning when you’re running late. It leaves you stranded in the driveway, making you late for work or appointments. Talk about a terrible way to start off your day!

But while a car that won’t start can certainly be frustrating, don’t freak out just yet! With the right troubleshooting and mechanical know-how, you can often diagnose and fix many common issues that could be preventing your car from starting.

In this comprehensive 2023 guide, we’ll walk through all the possible culprits that could be behind your no-start woes. We’ll provide tips ranging from quick solutions like jump starting a dead battery to replacing major engine components like the starter motor and alternator when they go bad.

Equipped with the troubleshooting advice ahead, you’ll have the knowledge to get your car started again in no time. No need to panic!

So let’s examine the most common reasons your car won’t start and how to fix them:

• Checking for a dead or weak battery and alternator issues
• Testing your starter motor and ignition system
• Inspecting spark plugs, wires, and fuel system components
• Fixing flooding and oil level problems
• Knowing when to call a professional mechanic for help

Read on and we’ll thoroughly cover each of these issues, with detailed guides on diagnosing car startup problems and getting you back on the road. No car trouble can keep you stranded when you know what to look for!

Step 1: Check Your Car Battery and Terminals

The battery is the first thing to check when diagnosing a no-start issue. A dead or weak battery is the most common reason your car won’t start. Thankfully, it’s also one of the easiest problems to diagnose and fix yourself. Let’s look at how to check for battery problems:

Inspect the Battery Terminals and Connections

Before anything else, pop the hood of your car and take a close look at the battery terminals and connections. Check for any dirt, corrosion, or loose connections that could be impeding power flow from the battery to the starter motor.

• Use a wire brush to gently clean any corrosion off the battery terminals and cable connectors. Baking soda mixed with water also works well to neutralize battery acid corrosion.
• Check that the terminal connections are tight and secure. Loose connections can interrupt the power flow. Tighten down any loose clamps firmly using a wrench or pliers.
• Inspect the battery cables for any cracks or damage. Replace damaged or corroded cables as needed.

Cleaning corroded terminals and tightening loose clamps can often get a previously “dead” battery working again. So start here before assuming you need a new battery.

Check the Charge Level with a Multimeter

Once you’ve verified the connections are solid, use an inexpensive multimeter to check the charge level of your battery. While the battery may seem dead, it could just be low on juice, so always test the voltage first.

• Set the multimeter to the DC voltage function, usually marked with a V symbol.
• Touch the red multimeter probe to the positive (+) battery terminal and the black probe to the negative (-) terminal.
• A reading around 12.6 volts indicates a fully charged battery. Any reading below 12 volts means the battery is low or dead and likely needs charging or replacement.
• Note: Be sure to disconnect the battery cables before testing voltage, as a surface charge can give an inaccurate reading on a dead battery.
• Tip: If the battery voltage is very low (9-10 volts), try charging it first before replacing, as it may simply have been drained by leaving interior car lights on overnight, for example.

So using a multimeter is the best way to definitively tell if a battery lacks sufficient charge to start your car. Let’s look at options if the battery voltage is low.

Jump Start the Battery

If your multimeter confirms the car battery voltage is drained, a jump start from another car or portable jump starter pack can often provide enough temporary charge to start your car.

• Safely connect the jumper cables following proper polarities – positive to positive, negative to negative. Improper hookup can damage electrical systems.
• Let the donor car run for a few minutes before attempting to start your car to allow time for some charge transfer.
• Turn the ignition and see if your car will start up with the extra juice. If so, your battery likely just needed a charge.
• Drive around for 30+ minutes after jump starting to allow the alternator to recharge your battery.

Jumping the battery is cheap and convenient. But it’s still best to do a load test afterwards to check if your battery may need replacement.

Load Test the Battery

A battery can show decent voltage but still lack the capacity to provide enough amps to the starter for igniting your engine. So the next step is to load test the battery.

• Many auto parts stores offer free battery load testing. They apply a controlled load that mimics trying to start the car.
• The battery is deemed weak or dead if voltage drops below 9.6 volts on a load test. Replace it if it fails.
• Tip: Load testing is the best way to determine if your no-start issue stems from a battery needing replacement, versus an electrical issue draining the battery.

One other possibility is to remove the battery and take it to an auto parts shop for professional testing. But on-site load testing works for most needs.

If your battery checks out fine, it’s time to move down the diagnostic list for other potential gremlins that could cause a no-start scenario…

Step 2: Test Your Car’s Starter Motor

After verifying your battery, the next thing to check if your car won’t start is the starter motor. This small but mighty electric motor is responsible for turning over the engine on ignition. Defective starters account for a large portion of non-starting problems after battery failure. Warning signs of a bad starter motor include:

• A single click or repeated rapid clicking when turning the key – indicative of a solenoid issue.
• Grinding or whining noises from the starter motor housing.
• Intermittently not starting – points to contacts wearing out inside.
• Smoke coming from starter area.
• Loose mounting bolts or cracks in the housing.

Let’s go over how to test and replace a failing or dead starter motor.

Check Voltage at the Starter Solenoid

First, use a multimeter to check if battery voltage is reaching the starter when you turn the key. Power flows through a switch called a solenoid before entering the motor.

• Set your multimeter to DC voltage mode and touch the red lead to the main positive terminal on the starter. The black lead goes to the battery negative ground.
• Turn the ignition key and check for 12+ volts, indicating power is getting to the starter. No voltage likely means a bad ignition switch, neutral safety switch, or wiring issue.
• Still no start with 12 volts present indicates the solenoid or motor itself has failed and needs replacement.

Checking voltage at the starter quickly isolates the issue between electrical supply problems and internal starter faults.

Perform a Starter Bench Test

For full confirmation of a dead starter motor, remove it and take it for professional bench testing at any auto parts retailer. They will hook it to a power source and definitively determine if it’s not engaging and turning.

• This test will pinpoint if the issue lies with the starter solenoid, armature, brushes or other internal components.
• Bench testing the starter provides guidance on if it needs repair or full replacement.

Expect to pay around $50-75 for bench testing service. It’s money well spent before buying parts for a DIY repair.

Replace the Bad Starter

In many cases of starter failure, the only option is to replace the starter entirely. Once bench tested, you’ll know if a starter needs to be rebuilt or replaced outright.

• Starters are bolted to the engine block for easy access. Allow 2-3 hours and basic tools for a DIY replacement.
• Aftermarket starter prices range from $100-250 for most vehicle makes and models.
• Be sure to buy the identical replacement part number for proper fit. Upgrade to a higher torque model if desired.
• Pro tip: Take pictures of all starter mountings and electrical connectors before unbolting anything to ensure easy reinstallation.

Swapping in a new starter motor is one of the most satisfying DIY fixes to get your car starting again. Just be prepared for some stubborn starter bolts!

Next up, let’s look at other ignition and electrical issues that can mimic a bad battery or starter…

Step 3: Check Your Ignition Switch and Lock Cylinder

Problems with your ignition switch and related components can closely resemble battery or starter troubles. Issues here can prevent the proper voltage signals from reaching your starter to crank the engine. Warning signs include:

Check for Ignition Switch Failure

The ignition switch controls power delivery to starter and ignition system. Failure points include:

• Worn internal contacts cause incomplete circuit connections.
• Cracked switch housing allows dirt/moisture to enter.
• Defective tumblers don’t transmit key position properly.

Issues can cause flickering dash lights, accessory power loss, and of course, failure to activate the starter.

Test for Faulty Ignition Lock Cylinder

This cylindrical housing contains the tumblers that must align to allow the key to turn and ignition to activate. Signs of failure:

• Difficulty turning the key, sticking, or not springing back to RUN position
• Removing the key when not in OFF position
• Loose cylinder or play in the housing

Worn tumblers or cylinder issues prevent the ignition circuit from closing properly.

Check Ignition Circuit Wiring

Lastly, inspect the wiring that connects your ignition switch to the starter solenoid. Fraying, damaged insulation, or disconnected wires can cause open circuits and failure to start. especially wiggle this wiring while trying to start – any change indicates a broken wire.

Fixing ignition switch and lock issues may require replacement by your dealership or locksmith due to programming of chipped keys. But diagnose problems here before replacing other components like the starter.

Step 4: Test and Replace a Broken Alternator

Let’s shift gears from solely startup issues to also consider why your car may start initially but then stall out.

A faulty or broken alternator can mimic similar symptoms to starter failure – causing the engine to turn over but not stay running.

Your alternator powers all electrical systems and recharges the battery while driving. So issues here will eventually leave your battery drained and unable to start the car. Signs of alternator problems:

Check for Warning Lights

The check battery or charging system warning lights on your dash should illuminate if the alternator stops providing charge. Don’t ignore these warnings!

Start Up and Stall Out

A car may start with a jump but then stall once the alternator can’t provide steady voltage while driving. This help confirms the problem lies with the alternator versus starter.

Dimming Headlights

Lights may dim at idle or go dark when driving due to insufficient charging. Similarly, interior lights and accessories may also cut out.

Battery Not Holding Charge

Even after jumps and driving, the battery keeps dying. The alternator isn’t recharging the battery like it should.

When you see these signs, have your alternator tested to confirm it’s the culprit.

Professional Alternator Testing

Auto parts stores and mechanics have the specialized tools to diagnose bad alternators:

• Voltage/amperage test – Tests output against factory specs to verify it’s not providing proper charge.
• Diode ripple test – Checks if internal diodes, which convert AC to DC, are burnt out. Bad diodes cause ripple.
• Field test – Applies voltage through external brushes to test rotor windings.

These tools don’t lie – if tests indicate your alternator is malfunctioning, replacement is required.

Alternator Replacement Cost

Expect to pay $350-750 for professional alternator repair or replacement, depending on your vehicle. The job requires 2-3 hours of labor plus parts cost.

• For DIYers, basic hand tools and a socket set is needed. Know your limits here.
• Bosch, Remy, Denso and Hitachi are top alternator brands to buy. Match OEM part numbers.

Don’t delay in diagnosing and replacing a bad alternator. Allowing your car to drive with weak/dead battery will lead to more electrical damage and breakdowns. Get that charging system fixed!

Now let’s move on to other ignition and fuel delivery issues that can cause intermittent starting troubles…

Step 5: Inspect Spark Plugs, Wires and Fuel System

Problems with ignition components or the fuel delivery system can mimic a dead battery or bad starter. Your engine needs proper spark and fuel combustion to start. Here are components to inspect in this system:

Check Spark Plugs and Ignition Wires

Defective spark plugs and worn plug wires are common – especially at high mileage. Inspect these ignition components:

• Remove each spark plug and check for heavy carbon fouling or oil contamination. Replace fouled plugs.
• Check the spark plug gap against manufacturer spec – a gap too large or small prevents firing. Re-gap or replace plugs as needed.
• Inspect all ignition wires for cracking, damage, burnt ends. Hard starting can indicate worn plug wires. Replace bad wires.
• Make sure ignition wires are always properly routed and securely connected. Check the distributor cap and rotor for dirt buildup or rough metal surfaces. Replace if worn.

Fresh spark plugs and wires restore proper combustion ignition. Don’t overlook this basic tune-up for preventing no-starts.

Fuel Pump and Filter

On fuel injected cars, issues with the electric fuel pump and filter can also cause failure to start. Here’s what to inspect:

• Turn the key and listen for the mechanical whine of the in-tank fuel pump activating. No sound can indicate pump failure.
• Check that fuel is reaching the engine. No fuel at the injectors points to a bad pump or filter.
• Debris clogged filters prevent proper fuel pressure and volume. Replace fuel filters if visibly dirty.
• Make sure all fuel pump wiring is intact with no damage or shorts. Wiggle the harness while trying to start – any change in operation indicates broken wiring.
• Warning: Don’t keep cranking the starter if you suspect a fuel delivery issue! Extended cranking can overheat and damage the pump.

Issues in the fuel supply system should be addressed to ensure your car starts and runs optimally.

So in summary, problems with spark plugs, ignition components or fuel delivery can certainly contribute to intermittent starting troubles even if the battery and starter check out fine. Evaluate the ignition and fuel systems thoroughly.

Step 6: Check for Engine Flooding

Flooding is another common cause of no-start or extended cranking issues, especially in fuel injected vehicles. Too much fuel in the engine essentially fouls out spark plugs and prevents proper ignition. Some causes include:

• Cranks too long and pumps more fuel when already flooded
• Leaky injector nozzles dumping excess fuel into engine
• Fuel pressure regulator failure allows fuel overpressure condition
• Perimeter sealing issues around injector bodies

Luckily, clearing a flooded engine to start again is straightforward:

Clear Flooding to Restart:

• First off, don’t crank the engine excessively when flooded – it just worsens the condition.
• Push the gas all the way down and hold for 5-10 seconds to trigger clearing mode.
• Crank the engine and it should fire up after 2-3 seconds of cranking if flooding is the culprit. The ECU runs extra rich for a short time to dry out plugs.
• If it doesn’t start, wait 10 minutes before cranking again to let plugs dry out.
• Fix the underlying fuel system issue once identified. Replace faulty injectors or pressure regulators.

Flooding is easily mistaken for traditional starting issues. But use the technique above to restart once and the main problem can be properly diagnosed after the fact.

Step 7: Check Your Engine Oil Level

Don’t overlook something as basic as an engine oil level check as part of diagnosing hard starting problems. Running very low on oil can cause internal friction and engine seizure that prevents properly turning over.

• Always check oil levels first thing when engine starting issues arise.
• Pull the dipstick – oil should rest between minimum and maximum markers. Anything below means oil is critically low.
• Top up the oil immediately if the dipstick is dry to the minimum marker. Use the specified type in your owner’s manual.
• CAUTION: Do NOT keep cranking the engine if oil is extremely low or empty – catastrophic engine damage can occur quickly from lack of lubrication.

Sometimes the culprit is as simple as forgetting your last oil change. Don’t risk seizing your engine – check oil level before further troubleshooting.

Step 8: When to Call a Mechanic for Help

While many no-start causes can be diagnosed yourself as we’ve covered, it’s perfectly fine to hand things over to a professional mechanic when issues point to major repair work or electrical faults in your car’s wiring. Consider getting professional assistance if:

• You lack the know-how, tools, or physical ability for major engine component replacement or rebuild work. Jobs like starter and alternator R&R are best left to the pros in many cases.
• Electrical gremlins have you chasing wires and pulling fuses trying to isolate faults. Skilled diagnostic work from a mechanic can find those tricky shorts and breaks.
• Used diagnostic tools like onboard code scanners indicate major issues beyond your skill level.
• Codes pointing to camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ECU, or transmission problems require advanced technical skills.
• You’ve exhausted all the obvious troubleshooting steps and the car still won’t start reliably. Additional professional diagnosis is needed.
• Extended cranking has resulted in starter or engine damage. Pro mechanic support is advised for any repair or rebuild work.
• Cost becomes excessive for continued DIY trial and error repairs. Know when to cut losses.
• You lack the physical strength or mobility for difficult access repairs. Don’t risk injury – call for help.

As a DIYer, know your limits and when it’s best to hand over the keys to a professional. Their diagnostic resources and expertise can efficiently resolve even the most confounding no-start frustrations.

Conclusion

Dealing with a car that won’t start, especially first thing on a busy morning, can really ruin your plans and sour your mood. But take a deep breath and know that with the right troubleshooting process, you can get your car back up and running reliably again.

We’ve covered the full gamut of potential issues that could cause failure to start – ranging from simple battery and starter problems to more involved fuel pump and alternator repairs.

Armed with this knowledge, you now have a methodical process to diagnose your particular no-start problem based on the symptoms present. Persistence and patience during step-by-step testing will eventually uncover the culprit.

And when all else fails, don’t be afraid to enlist a professional for assistance. They have the skills and resources to get even the most challenging starting problems resolved promptly.

With the right repairs and maintenance, your car will be firing right up again as soon as you turn the key. Here’s to many more miles of worry-free starts ahead!

Let us know in the comments if you have any tips to add for diagnosing no-start problems in cars. Share your experiences in tracking down and fixing that pesky issue that was preventing startup. Together we can build a knowledge base to help all drivers get their cars back on the road.